Packet Loss in the Evening (7PM-2AM)
I have been experiencing intermittent packet loss (particularly at night) over the last few months with associated event log errors on my cable modem (MB8600). Screenshots are attached. PingPlotter capture over Ethernet: Update 2020-09-03 — Packet loss starts at ~19:00 EDT, or start of "internet rush hour", 19:00PM - 23:00PM.86KViews0likes5Comments
Cox agent confirms that they do throttle speeds
Just got out of a chat with an agent about speed issues I've been having for the past month and he confirmed with me that due to exceeding the data usage cap that Cox is indeed shaping/throttling my connection. I tried to point out that under Cox's own Terms of Service it states that "Cox does not shape or throttle Internet traffic based on the particular online content, protocols or applications a customer uses" but he was adamant that I was being throttled due to excessive usage. I had a feeling that was the case since my speeds have taken quite a nose dive in the past month. I'm currently on the Internet Premier plan that reportedly has 100mbps/10mbps and I'm down to 16.2mbps/768kbps on my last speed test. The download doesn't bother me so much, but the upload is killing me. I've done some troubleshooting on my end just to make sure it wasn't Cox doing this to me. I've moved the modem to every possible spot in the home, tried the connection with and without the router (same results either way), did a factory reset on my modem (Motorola Surfboard 6121), and checked my signal ratings and they appear to be in a good range for both the downstream and upstream. I feel like I've covered all my bases, and the timing of my slow down with me going over my data usage really only points to shaping happening on Cox's end. I'd love to be proven wrong, but that's what it looks like to me. I'll probably be calling in the morning to cancel service. tl;dr: Asked agent if I was being throttled, said yes even though it's not Cox's policy to do so.64KViews0likes18Comments
Changing Network Name/Password
I had a Cox Commctns guy come out here today & set us up- very helpful btw. But now I don't know how to personalize the Network name & password. I know you guys recommend not to do that, but it will make things easier for us. I've been looking around on this site for some answers, but nothing has worked so far. I was only given this little set-up guide. No official manual or anything. I have a Ubee. It is a DOCSIS 3.0 WeMTA. The S/N is: D484M13003917 What other info would you need to help me? There are a bunch of other #'s on this box, but not sure what's what. Thanks in advance! I'll probably call Cox in the morning, but just thought I'd ask here while I'm thinking about it.39KViews0likes1Comment
Why is Cox Communications STILL NOT Connected with the History Channel?
I tried this when the History Channel first came out with their app for the XBOX 360 a long time ago and today I figured that I would give it another try because SURELY Cox has by now linked up with their authentication service. To my true disappointment I noticed this STILL has not been completed and I feel the need to voice my discontent in finding this out. If anyone from Cox actually reads and/or replies to this thread.... (a practice critical to actually running a customer focused company inline with their presumed marketing flubber)... then please briefly explain to us all the following: Why is your customer authentication system not linked up with with theirs yet? If your response to the above question attempts to place the blame on the side of the History Channel then please explain to me how they manage to be connected with every single Cable TV provider in the entire Nation (~50+ providers)? This is evidenced by simply visiting their default Activation/Authentication page located at http://www.history.com/activate (note: you must select the Roku or XBOX button prior to being able to see that use list of Cable providers) Please further provide us some insights into how many of your other current Channel Content Partners provide online viewing for which you currently have not properly implemented the same Activation/Authentication procedures? Please provide a general timeline in regards to when Cox Customers can expect such implementations to be completed? Although I am sure that the vast majority of remaining Cox subscribers do not use such services, your company needs to recognize that by failing to simply ensure such capabilities are treated as priorities you give people like me (and I am sure many others) just one more reason to look for alternatives out there. Get it together guys! Respectfully submitted, CH27KViews0likes8CommentsInternet speed - Ultimate
My internet is much slower then what im paying for but cox tells me its fine. I have the ultimate package (supposedly up to 150mbps) and these are the speed tests from sites OTHER then the bloated cox speedtest. http://testmy.net/db/qlbwoEr Speakeasy :Your Speed Result: Download Speed: 17160 kbps (2145 KB/sec transfer rate) Upload Speed: 17782 kbps (2222.8 KB/sec transfer rate) What does Cox say my internet is? Start Cox Net Download Speed Upload Speed Latency Your IP Address Cox Market Fri Apr 12 11:36 AM Yes 79 Mbps 36 Mbps 40 millisec **.***.***.** Las Vegas Im paying $125 a month for your best internet and protection plan... and every time I call in or have a tech come out your telling me its fine.26KViews0likes27CommentsSlow Speeds with Netgear R7000 Router - How We Fixed It - SOLVED
This is a post about slow internet speeds with the Netgear R7000 router and how we solved the problem. If you want to skip directly to our fix, go to the fourth paragraph from the bottom of the post. If you want the background first, keep reading. Like others, we've been having slow internet download speed issues with our R7000 router. These slow speeds are when we are connected by cable to the router with the wifi off on the computer and the router or if connected by wifi to the router - it doesn't matter. Our internet connection is the Ultimate package rated at 300Mbps/30Mbps download/upload. When connecting through the router we would be lucky to get 120-160Mbps download but always 30Mbps up. When connecting directly through the cable modem (Motorola MB8600) we usually get our rated download speed and above. All speed test numbers have been tested using not only the speed test software housed at Cox, but also speed test sites on the internet. All speed tests confirm each other as they are within 10% of each other with, of course, the ISP's test showing the fastest. Regardless, the R7000 router always showed 120-160 down (sometimes even half that at times). There would naturally be slightly slower speeds during congested times during the evening, but the R7000 would always be about 50% slower than if we were connected directly through the modem, bypassing the router. Before getting to what we did with the router, here is everything else that was done to isolate any other potential problems. Cox came out to the house multiple times. Network cables from the computer to the router and router to the modem were fine, but we replaced them with brand new CAT-7 cables anyway. Interior house coax cabling was fine and barrel connector were fine but connector replaced anyway. From the house to the tap, the cabling was fine. The tap checked out OK, but since it was old they replaced it anyway. The cabling from the tap to the post where cabling comes out of the street was fine, but they rebuilt the post anyway. The cabling in the street had one section that indicated some slight signal loss, so they replaced the cabling in the street. Back in the house, their test equipment was attached to the line ahead of our modem and regularly showed 315-330Mbs down and 31Mbps up. They reprovisioned our line at the central office, installed their modem on the coax, directly attached their modem to our computer and regularly got 300 or above on multiple occassions. They reprovisioned the line again, installed our modem on the coax, directly attached our modem to our computer and regularly got 300 or above on multiple occassions. Computer settings were checked to make sure everything was configured correctly and all unnecesary computer processes were stopped to make sure nothing was interfering. So, everything is OK on the ISP side and also with the computer and its cables. After making sure everything else was OK, we shut everything off, connected the computer back to the router and the router back to the modem, let the modem boot up completely, then let the router boot up completely, then let the computer boot up completely. After making sure all unnecesary processes were stopped, new speed tests were run showing slow 120-160 download speeds. Multiple tests over the past month connected to the router, whether by direct cable with wifi off on the computer and router, or whether connected by wifi consistently showed the slower speeds from the ISP's speed test and multiple internet speed test sites. And multiple tests while bypassing the router and being directly connected to the modem regularly showed 300-350. So the router was definitely the issue. Have we reset the router back to factory defaults? Yes. Have we been sure to download and install the latest firmware when it came out? Always - and there is where the problem is. We dutifully upgraded all the firmware releases up through the most current v1.09.18 (as of January, 2018). After reading others' posts, a number of them have talked about downgrading the firmware. Some have said v1.09.06 worked for them (but their rated line speed was, if I recall, much less than our 300/30). Others have said they have downgraded to v1.03.24 that had solved their problems (in fact, one of those people had a line rated at 400/40). Still others said v1.07.12 solved their problem. Hmm, was this the answer? After looking through our old speed test results from October, 2017, we noticed that when we upgraded our line in October from Premier 100/15 to Ultimate 300/30, we also upgraded our R7000 firmware from the 1.07.xx series to the 1.09.xx series - and that 's when our problems began. All along we thought the issue came from the ISP, thinking they either had equipment problems or that they had mis-provisioned our line when we switched to the faster plan. It turns out it was the firmware on the R7000 router. FINALLY - HERE'S THE FIX. We factory reset the router once again, downloaded and installed the v1.07.12 firmware, then again factory reset the router, direct connected to the router before rebuilding all our old settings, kept wifi turned off - and now we are regularly getting 300-350Mbps download from the router. After rebuilding all our old settings, turning wifi back on and still staying connected directly to the router, we are still getting 300-350 downloads. Removing the direct cable connection to the router and using the wifi from the computer to the router, we are regularly getting +/- 300Mbps downloads (of course depending on how close we are to the router). So that's the simple fix. I suspect there is something lurking in the 1.09.xx series firmware that is not allowing the router to efficiently handle higher rated line speeds (if you are at 150Mbps rated download or below, I'm guessing you are OK). Some people might say our settings weren't correct in the router when using the v1.09.xx firmware releases. I don't think that's the case since we tried everything AND we also factory reset the router while still using the v1.09.18 firmware. Hope this helps. This post was written January 10, 2018. The most recent firmware as of this date was v1.09.18, which caused us to have slow download speeds on the R7000 (much slower than our 300/30 line). If you're reading this after January, 2018, and you have slow speed issues with the router, and if the most current firmware is in the 1.09.xx series, I would suggest downgrading back to v1.07.12. UPDATE as of January 22, 2018: This fix has continued to work reliably. I'm consistently getting download speeds in upper 300's to lower 400's - either connected directly to the router or using wifi.21KViews0likes2Comments
Data Usage Discrepancy
With the current policy of data caps I decided to track my usage at the router level. I just checked my cox account and from start of my billing cycle to yesterday (6-26-17 thru 7-11-17) states I have used 205 GB. When I check my router Netgear r7000 that I started tracking a day before my billing cycle to today (6-25-17 thru 7-12-17) states I used only 187GB. That is a discrepancy of 18GB! I would not care normally but since it is now policy to charge if and when we go over 1TB, this phantom data can be a means to charge overages. I highly disagree with any data caps in principle and function but if you choose to institute a cap then I expect it to be accurate. I want to know what Cox's stance on the accuracy on the data meter and discrepancies when I track my own. I would attach screen captures but your forum is too lackluster to properly insert. This is just a personal comment, data caps and penalties was a terrible idea and is the first time I am truly unhappy with my service and will be reviewing other service options.20KViews0likes44CommentsUpload Problems
Hi, So I've been having problems with my upload for awhile now. I have the Ultimate package which is 300 down 30 up, the problem is my upload is never consistent and this is a problem because I live stream. At first I never got anything above 2-3Mbps so I called cox and they sent a tech out and the tech said there was a lot of problems in the box on the street including a trap. He said he fixed the issues in the box and that if I was still having problems to call them back out to run a new line from the outside of my house to the inside as the line that runs through the walls was old, he also told me the modem I was renting from Cox was known to have problems. So after he left my uploads were about the same but I wasn't getting the packet loss that I was getting before. I called Cox and scheduled a tech to come out and replace the line i also starting doing research on modems and found out about the Puma 6 problems so i ordered the Netgear CM600 which has the Broadcom chipset. Now here's where it's starts to get weird, after I set up the new modem and called Cox to activate it I ran some speed test and my results were awesome I was getting like 17-25Mbps on my upload, I was really happy and I thought the issue was fixed so I called up Cox to cancel the tech. About 2 hours later I noticed I was starting to drop frames so I ran some upload test and my upload speed was dropping lower and lower after each test until it back down to 3-6Mbps so I rescheduled the tech to come out but the following day when I woke up speeds were back up to 17-25 Mbps, then they dropped again. The tech came out replaced the lines and the speed went back up for about 5-6 hours but then they dropped again. I don't know what the problem but my brain is about to explode. I need to fix w/e is causing this, I cant stream with upload that's all over the place and never consistent. If anyone has any ideas or suggestions I would really appreciate it. I run all my speed test on Testmy.net and speedof.me and use the Twitch Bandwidth tool for connections quality. I'm also not wireless I'm hardwired.19KViews0likes1CommentTo all the people that have been experiencing low upload speeds, I have had a break through.
If you came here for a fix you will be getting a fix, I have done this on my pc and it has given me good results. Run the following commands in CMD as admin. Network cmd settings In cmd netsh int tcp set global rss=disabled netsh int tcp set global chimney=disabled netsh int tcp set global autotuning=disabled (set to normal if you have 100mbps+ internet speeds) netsh int tcp set supplemental Internet congestionprovider=CTCP netsh int tcp set global ecncapability=disabled (enable if you have bad packet loss) netsh int tcp set global timestamps=disabled netsh int tcp set global initialRto=2000 netsh int tcp set global rsc=disabled netsh int tcp set global nonsackrttresiliency=disabled netsh int tcp set global maxsynretransmissions=2 netsh int tcp set global fastopen=enabled netsh int tcp set global fastopenfallback=enabled netsh int tcp set global hystart=enabled netsh int tcp set global pacingprofile=off Now you need to go to "Network and Sharing", "Change Adapter Settings" now choose your network card. Now click "Properties" and uncheck all but "Internet Protocol Version 4" Now for these settings, I have some examples for certain cards, if you are using a Realtek Network Card, then just disable everything, and keep "speed and duplex" to "negotiation" INTEL(R) ETHERNET CONNECTION (7) I219-V Adaptive inter-frame spacing - disabled Enable PME - disabled Energy Efficient Ethernet - off ARP offload - disabled Flow control - disabled Gigabit master slave mode - auto detect (can disable internet or kills speeds for some pc's - if so leave at auto detect) Interrupt moderation - disabled Interrupt moderation rate - off ipv4 checksum offload - rx & tx disabled (enable for low end hardware) Jumbo packet - disabled Large send offload v2 (ipv4) - disabled Large send offload v2 (ipv6) - disabled Legacy Switch Compatibility Mode - disabled Locally administered address - not present Log link state event - disabled Maximum Number of RSS Queues - 4 queues (registry tweak below) Packet priority & vlan - disabled Protocol ARP offload - disabled Protocol NS offload - disabled Receive buffers - 2048 (max for high speed internet - turn down for low speed internet) Receive side scaling - disabled Receive side scaling - enabled (if using checksum offloading) Reduce Speed On Power Down - disabled Speed & duplex - auto negotiation (can disable internet or kills speeds for some pc's - if so leave at auto negotiation) System Idle Power Saver - disabled TCP checksum offload (ipv4) - rx & tx disabled (enable for low end hardware) TCP checksum offload (ipv6) - rx & tx disabled (enable for low end hardware or disabled as not using ipv6) Transmit buffers - 2048 (max for high speed internet - turn down for low speed internet) UDP checksum offload (ipv4) - rx & tx disabled (enable for low end hardware) UDP checksum offload (ipv6) - rx & tx disabled (enable for low end hardware or disabled as not using ipv6) Ultra Low Power Mode - disabled Wait For Link - off Wake on Link Settings - disabled Wake on Magic Packet - disabled Wake on Pattern Match - disabled Apply LAPTOP KILLER WIRELESS-N/A /AC 1535 WIRELESS NETWORK D0 packetcoalescing - disabled Dynamic mimo power save - disabled network address - not present preferred band - no preference roaming aggressiveness - highest wireless mode - 12 -11 a/b/g/n/ac Apply KILLER E2400 GIGABIT ETHERNET CONTROLLER Arp offload - disabled Ecma - disabled Energy efficient ethernet - disabled Flow control - disabled Interrupt moderation - disabled Ipv4 checksum offload - disabled (enable for low end hardware) Jumbo frame - disabled Large send offload ipv4 - disabled Large send offload v2 ipv4 - disabled Large send offload v2 ipv6 - disabled Max irq per second - 10000 Maximum number of rss queues - 4 Network address - not present Ns offload - disabled Receive buffers - max (max for high speed internet - turn down for low speed internet) Receive side scaling - disabled Receive side scaling - enabled (if using checksum offloading) Shutdown and wakeup - disabled Speed & duplex - auto negotiation (can disable internet or kills speeds for some pc's - if so leave at auto negotiation) Swoi - disabled Tcp checksum offload ipv4 - disabled (enable for low end hardware) Tcp checksum offload ipv6 - disabled (enable for low end hardware or disabled as not using ipv6) Transmit buffers - max (max for high speed internet - turn down for low speed internet) Udp checksum offload ipv4 - disabled (enable for low end hardware) Udp checksum offload ipv6 - disabled (enable for low end hardware or disabled as not using ipv6) Vlan id - 0 Wake on magic packet - disabled Wake on pattern match - disabled Apply INTEL(R) 82579V GIGABIT NETWORK CONNECTION Adaptive inter-frame spacing - disabled ARP offload - disabled Flow control - disabled Gigabit master slave mode - auto detect (can disable internet or kills speeds for some pc's - if so leave at auto detect) Interrupt moderation - disabled Interrupt moderation rate - off ipv4 checksum offload - disabled (enable for low end hardware) Jumbo packet - disabled Large send offload v2 (ipv4) - disabled Large send offload v2 (ipv6) - disabled Locally administered address - not present Maximum number of rss queues - 4 (registry tweak below) Log link state event - disabled Ns offload - disabled Packet priority & vlan - disabled Receive buffers - max (max for high speed internet - turn down for low speed internet) Receive side scaling - disabled Receive side scaling - enabled (if using checksum offloading) Speed & duplex - auto negotiation (can disable internet or kills speeds for some pc's - if so leave at auto negotiation) TCP checksum offload (ipv4) - disabled (enable for low end hardware) TCP checksum offload (ipv6) - disabled (enable for low end hardware or disabled as not using ipv6) Transmit buffers - max (max for high speed internet - turn down for low speed internet) UDP checksum offload (ipv4) - disabled (enable for low end hardware) UDP checksum offload (ipv6) - disabled (enable for low end hardware or disabled as not using ipv6) Wait for link - off Apply I would recommend using 3 different sites to test your speed. https://www.speakeasy.net/speedtest/ https://speedtest.net TestMy.net Broadband Internet Speed Test I would recommend trying different servers if you still are getting trouble with speeds. Personally I have found that non cox servers give me better results. I hope this has helped me. if you have any questions or concerns drop a comment.18KViews0likes0Comments
$25 Returned Payment Fee
I pay my Cox bill with my credit card using auto-pay. I received an updated credit card, as often happens to everyone. It has the same card number, but a different expiration date, even though the old card wasn't set to expire for quite some time. On Dec 13, the following occurred (in this order): I activated my new card, which instantly deactivated the old one. I starting going to my various auto-pay sites to change my card info, but hadn't gotten to the Cox site yet. I received an email from Cox saying my auto-payment didn't go through. I went to the Cox site, updated my card info, made a payment, and reactivated auto-pay. I continued to update my card info at other sites. A few days ago, I got a letter from Cox saying my account had been slapped with a $25 returned payment fee. My payment was due Dec 13, and I made the successful payment Dec 13. The payment was not late. The fee was not for making a late payment. Cox just happened to hit that short window between when I activated the new card (deactivating the card on file) and updated my card info @ Cox. (I have since called Cox. The person I spoke with was about 98% sure Cox would reverse the charge because I have been a customer for a long time, and there were no other issues. We'll see.) I called my credit union, which issued my credit card. I was told they do not charge Cox (or anyone else) when Cox attempts to charge a credit card, but is unable to do so. They also do not charge Cox when a paper check bounces. The credit union person I talked with suggested that now that people are moving away from using paper checks and are using paperless methods instead, companies are losing the revenue they received from bounced checks. Therefore, they (I only know of Cox doing this) are now using the "returned payment fee" for credit cards/auto-pay. Even before she suggested this, I knew Cox was doing this simply to increase revenue and rip-off their customers. Imagine all the times people run a card through a card reader at a check-out at a store, and it gets rejected because the person ddint' realize the card had expired. What if there was a $25 fee every time that happened? Totally unreasonable. In Cox's terma/agreements/policies, this situation is considered "insufficient funds." Now, if you bounce a check, that is typically because of insufficient funds, but when a credit card doesn't work, that could be due to many things. In my case, there was still about $10,000 of credit left on that card, so insufficient funds does not apply. AND the credit card number had not changed, so the credit card number was still valid! AND I paid the darned bill ON TIME! There are many lessons here. One lesson is, know all of your auto-pay due dates (they seem to be all over the place). If you get a new credit card, choose a day that is not a due date or even near a due date to activate your card and update your card info on all of your auto-pay sites. Cox will lose customers over this. It won't matter to them, though, because these returned payment fees will make up for lost customers. If they don't reverse that charge for me, or they ever do this to me again, I will also leave the company.17KViews2likes2Comments
